https://skyhound.com/forums/ Tue, 05 May 2026 09:58:08 +0000 MyBB https://skyhound.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=3300 Mon, 21 Jul 2025 04:00:36 -0400 tomdean]]> https://skyhound.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=3300
I do Astronomy because I enjoy it. It is hobby. I have been at it for a dozen years, or so.

I had a Meade 8" SCT and iOptron CEM60EC plus associated lenses, etc.,  and a Cannon EOS 60Da.
I did a combination of visual observing and imaging with varying degrees of success. But, I had a lot of fun.
I used ST3/4 for planning, APT, skychart, BYEOS, PHD2, and platesolve3 for imaging.

Due to advancing age, I have to downsize. I have not kept up with advances in hardware.

I have ST4, both visual and imaging.

ST4 can control the telescope, slew and sync. How do I fold image and platesolve into this?

I have a AT65EDQ OTA and a iOptron CEM25EC and some Nagler lenses.

I want to add a camera for EAA with the provision to upgrade the AT654EDQ to a 102mm scope. For now, I want a cooled camera which includes a guide scope.

I am thinking of a ZWO ASI2600MM Duo camera. Will this work with the AT65EDQ, assuming I can find the adapters? I don't know about telescope output diameter.

If I buy the ZWO, what OTA should I look for, assuming I will upgrade?

Tom Dean]]>
I do Astronomy because I enjoy it. It is hobby. I have been at it for a dozen years, or so.

I had a Meade 8" SCT and iOptron CEM60EC plus associated lenses, etc.,  and a Cannon EOS 60Da.
I did a combination of visual observing and imaging with varying degrees of success. But, I had a lot of fun.
I used ST3/4 for planning, APT, skychart, BYEOS, PHD2, and platesolve3 for imaging.

Due to advancing age, I have to downsize. I have not kept up with advances in hardware.

I have ST4, both visual and imaging.

ST4 can control the telescope, slew and sync. How do I fold image and platesolve into this?

I have a AT65EDQ OTA and a iOptron CEM25EC and some Nagler lenses.

I want to add a camera for EAA with the provision to upgrade the AT654EDQ to a 102mm scope. For now, I want a cooled camera which includes a guide scope.

I am thinking of a ZWO ASI2600MM Duo camera. Will this work with the AT65EDQ, assuming I can find the adapters? I don't know about telescope output diameter.

If I buy the ZWO, what OTA should I look for, assuming I will upgrade?

Tom Dean]]> https://skyhound.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=3244 Fri, 21 Mar 2025 12:56:13 -0400 drjerry@calldrjerry.com]]> https://skyhound.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=3244
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  screen shot2.jpg (Size: 150.58 KB / Downloads: 6) ]]> https://skyhound.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=3232 Sun, 02 Feb 2025 09:02:53 -0500 ecassar]]> https://skyhound.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=3232 https://skyhound.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=3189 Thu, 31 Oct 2024 13:39:20 -0400 beecielo]]> https://skyhound.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=3189
I thought it would be cool to import Guy Pirro's 888 favorite northern sky objects into ST as an observation list. His list is just a group of objects in an HTML page. I was able to cut, paste and wrangle the data into Excel and create a list of objects, so far without their associated galaxies, but I'm going to try to do that as well. 

However, I don't know how to bring it into ST - what data needs to be included and what filetype (and probably a couple of other things!). Any help appreciated.]]>
I thought it would be cool to import Guy Pirro's 888 favorite northern sky objects into ST as an observation list. His list is just a group of objects in an HTML page. I was able to cut, paste and wrangle the data into Excel and create a list of objects, so far without their associated galaxies, but I'm going to try to do that as well. 

However, I don't know how to bring it into ST - what data needs to be included and what filetype (and probably a couple of other things!). Any help appreciated.]]> https://skyhound.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=3107 Fri, 31 May 2024 14:34:12 -0400 vicuna]]> https://skyhound.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=3107
there are ink ereaders that are almost the side of paper to don't output light. I would imagine you could use a redlight or amber reading light just like paper? not sure how it would work with glare?

https://remarkable.com/store/remarkable-2

also the ipad 2024 is about the size of paper and is now OLED. 

my laptop battery sucks and I have a push-to scope anyway...so prefer paper - but don't mind if the "paper" is digital.

Eta: I mostly observe from home in Bortle 4/5...not sure how harmful a little bit of light would be here compared to a dark sky.

tyty]]>
there are ink ereaders that are almost the side of paper to don't output light. I would imagine you could use a redlight or amber reading light just like paper? not sure how it would work with glare?

https://remarkable.com/store/remarkable-2

also the ipad 2024 is about the size of paper and is now OLED. 

my laptop battery sucks and I have a push-to scope anyway...so prefer paper - but don't mind if the "paper" is digital.

Eta: I mostly observe from home in Bortle 4/5...not sure how harmful a little bit of light would be here compared to a dark sky.

tyty]]> https://skyhound.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=3104 Wed, 29 May 2024 11:19:38 -0400 vicuna]]> https://skyhound.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=3104
on my home device, I went to Tools --> Sync Databases then "Create Sync Database". copied those folders to a flash drive.

then on the work computer I click "sync databases" then merge direct from the flash drive.

Is there a better way to do this? would prefer the computers to be identical rather than merged. the computers are not on the same network.

I also don't really change telescopes or locations too often. so would it be a big deal if I didn't sync things if I was just creating a list for that night? (or just exported the list)

I have the Pro Version of Visual

trying to keep it simple

tytyty]]>
on my home device, I went to Tools --> Sync Databases then "Create Sync Database". copied those folders to a flash drive.

then on the work computer I click "sync databases" then merge direct from the flash drive.

Is there a better way to do this? would prefer the computers to be identical rather than merged. the computers are not on the same network.

I also don't really change telescopes or locations too often. so would it be a big deal if I didn't sync things if I was just creating a list for that night? (or just exported the list)

I have the Pro Version of Visual

trying to keep it simple

tytyty]]> https://skyhound.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=3100 Sun, 26 May 2024 17:56:16 -0400 vicuna]]> https://skyhound.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=3100
I started to go through the Messier List and added it to the Brief...but the Brief note didn't copy to my other lists?

would love for it to show up next to the ideal eyepiece on the list

any way to put it in there so it's permanent and comes up on every list? or what would be the best way to do this so it's right up there and not buried in a note?

tytyty


  Screenshot 2024-05-26 175312.png (Size: 22.83 KB / Downloads: 6) ]]>
I started to go through the Messier List and added it to the Brief...but the Brief note didn't copy to my other lists?

would love for it to show up next to the ideal eyepiece on the list

any way to put it in there so it's permanent and comes up on every list? or what would be the best way to do this so it's right up there and not buried in a note?

tytyty


  Screenshot 2024-05-26 175312.png (Size: 22.83 KB / Downloads: 6) ]]> https://skyhound.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=3097 Thu, 23 May 2024 19:54:14 -0400 vicuna]]> https://skyhound.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=3097
This is all with the same telescope

1)  I use Zoom eyepieces interchangeably when I mono-view

I entered in 4 separate eyepieces (the top focal length, bottom, and two in-between). the only thing is I would assume it would never choose that eyepiece and instead choose one with a larger FOV. should I leave it as is and just know I might not capture the whole field?

2) I use binoviewers frequently - all eyepieces are 1.25" and usually narrower fields of view.

3) I use Night Vision frequently - all night vision is 40 degrees aparent field of view and there's only a handful of eyepieces involved

for both of 2 and 3 I'm thinking create another telescope?

or just create custom eyepieces that are unnamed - all say at 67 degrees field of view and let the software tell me what magnification is best, then I can figure out how to best frame it with whatever I am using that night?

or any other ideas? I would like it as simple as possible even if I lose a little bit of functionality here

tyty]]>
This is all with the same telescope

1)  I use Zoom eyepieces interchangeably when I mono-view

I entered in 4 separate eyepieces (the top focal length, bottom, and two in-between). the only thing is I would assume it would never choose that eyepiece and instead choose one with a larger FOV. should I leave it as is and just know I might not capture the whole field?

2) I use binoviewers frequently - all eyepieces are 1.25" and usually narrower fields of view.

3) I use Night Vision frequently - all night vision is 40 degrees aparent field of view and there's only a handful of eyepieces involved

for both of 2 and 3 I'm thinking create another telescope?

or just create custom eyepieces that are unnamed - all say at 67 degrees field of view and let the software tell me what magnification is best, then I can figure out how to best frame it with whatever I am using that night?

or any other ideas? I would like it as simple as possible even if I lose a little bit of functionality here

tyty]]> https://skyhound.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=3096 Wed, 22 May 2024 17:33:04 -0400 vicuna]]> https://skyhound.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=3096
but just yesterday I unexpectedly got into a sold out star party in two weeks (Cherry Springs - this will be my first star party and only second time ever to a dark site).

so I **really** want to get the list generation right for this.

I have been in the hobby for 2 years but observing time has only been a few hours a week from bortle 4/5.

so my main goal is to see "showpiece" objects. my main goal is observing > learning the sky / hunting things down / seeing very very faint things (i'll circle back to all of that later). I'll be using a Nexus DSC, an alt-az mount, and a refractor. I have filters and I'll keep the eyepieces and stuff minimal. just really want to observe a lot.

can someone suggest some settings for me for list creation? I don't think i'll be able to stay up all night but I want to have a list for best objects in case say I wake up at 2am or whatever so I can get up and running right away. 

I'm guessing the sky won't be much different over 3 days so I was thinking of making just one list...like top objects at 15 minutes per observation? or should I do 10 and just take longer if I want and skip stuff? or should I do 5 minutes in case part of the sky is cloudy?

I'm hoping to make the list this weekend and print out all the charts and spiral bind it so I can study it for two weeks when I have a little downtime at lunch or whatever. so any input on settings for me would be great.

thank you for any suggestions / tips!!]]>
but just yesterday I unexpectedly got into a sold out star party in two weeks (Cherry Springs - this will be my first star party and only second time ever to a dark site).

so I **really** want to get the list generation right for this.

I have been in the hobby for 2 years but observing time has only been a few hours a week from bortle 4/5.

so my main goal is to see "showpiece" objects. my main goal is observing > learning the sky / hunting things down / seeing very very faint things (i'll circle back to all of that later). I'll be using a Nexus DSC, an alt-az mount, and a refractor. I have filters and I'll keep the eyepieces and stuff minimal. just really want to observe a lot.

can someone suggest some settings for me for list creation? I don't think i'll be able to stay up all night but I want to have a list for best objects in case say I wake up at 2am or whatever so I can get up and running right away. 

I'm guessing the sky won't be much different over 3 days so I was thinking of making just one list...like top objects at 15 minutes per observation? or should I do 10 and just take longer if I want and skip stuff? or should I do 5 minutes in case part of the sky is cloudy?

I'm hoping to make the list this weekend and print out all the charts and spiral bind it so I can study it for two weeks when I have a little downtime at lunch or whatever. so any input on settings for me would be great.

thank you for any suggestions / tips!!]]> https://skyhound.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=3025 Fri, 08 Mar 2024 09:22:07 -0500 Mark_F]]> https://skyhound.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=3025 For context:
1: Home observatory - one imaging system, UK based and struggling with weather. Local imaging PC fully automated - accessed remotely from the desktop in the house.
2: Remote observatory - two scopes, Spain based with excellent seeing. Local PC fully automated - accessed from same desktop PC.

What I want to do is run Skytools locally for all systems (as my deskptop is the place where I "play" and I don't want to install much other software on the imaging systems).
I'd like to be able to plan locally in one place and then export to NINA to run on either machine in each of the two locations above.
In order to this, do I need to have NINA on my desktop so that I can work with profiles etc? Should I I just fake it with the necessary files/locations?

One other question, I use NINA "direct guider" as I only need to dither the scope, there is no guiding, is this to be configured as no guiding and will it still offer a dither option when exporting to NINA (actually, on writing this, I'll just try it!)

Is there anything else to consider when dealing with the above setup?

Thanks!]]> For context:
1: Home observatory - one imaging system, UK based and struggling with weather. Local imaging PC fully automated - accessed remotely from the desktop in the house.
2: Remote observatory - two scopes, Spain based with excellent seeing. Local PC fully automated - accessed from same desktop PC.

What I want to do is run Skytools locally for all systems (as my deskptop is the place where I "play" and I don't want to install much other software on the imaging systems).
I'd like to be able to plan locally in one place and then export to NINA to run on either machine in each of the two locations above.
In order to this, do I need to have NINA on my desktop so that I can work with profiles etc? Should I I just fake it with the necessary files/locations?

One other question, I use NINA "direct guider" as I only need to dither the scope, there is no guiding, is this to be configured as no guiding and will it still offer a dither option when exporting to NINA (actually, on writing this, I'll just try it!)

Is there anything else to consider when dealing with the above setup?

Thanks!]]> https://skyhound.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=2992 Tue, 30 Jan 2024 13:32:55 -0500 theresamarie11]]> https://skyhound.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=2992 I wanted to see how it compared to my own project of IC410, the tadpoles.     So I entered my imaging system, filters, etc.     Used the search tool to find some targets in target selection.   Then entered the smart project builder.  

First thing, instead of opening with all of the things I had selected in the target tool like location, imaging scope, etc, smart project builder opens with some default items which are totally different (maybe authors stuff).   So first thing you need to do is reset everything to what you have already selected in the target selection tool.      They should be carried over, to make the tool smart.    I agree you should be able to edit them, but they should at least be the same as in the target selection tool.

Next thing, all of the sub exposures, for every filter, are 20 minutes (my max exposure time) when I set total exposure time to 5 hours (I guess this is per filter).    L, R, G, B, Ha, SII, OIII.. every one is 20 minutes sub-exposure.     I'm not sure how useful that is.
As a sub note here, when you have multiple filters, you should allow a range of possible exposure times per filter...  because narrow band may be 20 minutes, but I'd never see doing a luminance image for 20 minutes.    And the SNRs aren't balanced across filters, just maximum for what 20 minute exposure gives for each filter.

But If you instead set SNR quality, which is exclusive of setting time per filter, then you get more reasonable exposure times, but you can no longer set total exposure time, you just get the amount of time to hit an SNR, which I'm not clear is all that useful from a practical standpoint.   The Tadpoles are primarily a narrowband target.  A lot of Ha, and much dimmer OIII, and get RGB for stars.   In this case, the smallest exposure time is for Ha which is really going to make your object, and the longest for SII.  I'm not sure I'd run things this way for a pleasing image.    Not doing science here, just looking for a pleasing image.    It recommends G at 70 minutes and Ha at 20 minutes, SII for 240 minutes, OIII for 30 minutes, and so on.    OIII in this object needs much longer exposures than 10 minutes because the signal is so low, so this doesn't match my experience.  Why is that?     Now I understand that this is to hit an fixed single SNR for all filters.   Just wondering how practical it is.     For star data only, you need minimal time and exposures such that you don't blow out stars.   Maybe there should be a setting for this kind of an image.    It's really SNR for stars much of the time when you take RGB for narrowband targets. 

Total exposure time.   I set this to 5 hours but at first I didn't realize it's per filter, not total for the object.    Every filter is set for 15x20 minutes, or 5 hours.     I thought I'd get some mix of exposures to fit within an imaging time.    Just setting them all to the same total exposure, not sure how useful this is.    Is there a way to set total imaging time.   Say I'm at a star party, I wanted to image this object and it's going to be up for 8 hours, is there a way to get an optimized use of that time?

Total object exposure:   I'm wondering if it makes sense to have a total imaging time (that you have).. and what's the best mix or exposures to fit into that and show the maximum object SNR you can get.

Gain.  Gain seems fixed, so while I have 2 different gains, one 0 and one 100, it just uses whatever you pick.     Might make sense to pick intelligently as I'm not really clear with the ASI6200 when to use gain 0 and use mostly gain 100.    

I haven't had the tool for long, so apologize if I'm not using it correctly.    Entirely willing to learn.   It's why I entered this in newbie area.

Thanks,
Terri]]> I wanted to see how it compared to my own project of IC410, the tadpoles.     So I entered my imaging system, filters, etc.     Used the search tool to find some targets in target selection.   Then entered the smart project builder.  

First thing, instead of opening with all of the things I had selected in the target tool like location, imaging scope, etc, smart project builder opens with some default items which are totally different (maybe authors stuff).   So first thing you need to do is reset everything to what you have already selected in the target selection tool.      They should be carried over, to make the tool smart.    I agree you should be able to edit them, but they should at least be the same as in the target selection tool.

Next thing, all of the sub exposures, for every filter, are 20 minutes (my max exposure time) when I set total exposure time to 5 hours (I guess this is per filter).    L, R, G, B, Ha, SII, OIII.. every one is 20 minutes sub-exposure.     I'm not sure how useful that is.
As a sub note here, when you have multiple filters, you should allow a range of possible exposure times per filter...  because narrow band may be 20 minutes, but I'd never see doing a luminance image for 20 minutes.    And the SNRs aren't balanced across filters, just maximum for what 20 minute exposure gives for each filter.

But If you instead set SNR quality, which is exclusive of setting time per filter, then you get more reasonable exposure times, but you can no longer set total exposure time, you just get the amount of time to hit an SNR, which I'm not clear is all that useful from a practical standpoint.   The Tadpoles are primarily a narrowband target.  A lot of Ha, and much dimmer OIII, and get RGB for stars.   In this case, the smallest exposure time is for Ha which is really going to make your object, and the longest for SII.  I'm not sure I'd run things this way for a pleasing image.    Not doing science here, just looking for a pleasing image.    It recommends G at 70 minutes and Ha at 20 minutes, SII for 240 minutes, OIII for 30 minutes, and so on.    OIII in this object needs much longer exposures than 10 minutes because the signal is so low, so this doesn't match my experience.  Why is that?     Now I understand that this is to hit an fixed single SNR for all filters.   Just wondering how practical it is.     For star data only, you need minimal time and exposures such that you don't blow out stars.   Maybe there should be a setting for this kind of an image.    It's really SNR for stars much of the time when you take RGB for narrowband targets. 

Total exposure time.   I set this to 5 hours but at first I didn't realize it's per filter, not total for the object.    Every filter is set for 15x20 minutes, or 5 hours.     I thought I'd get some mix of exposures to fit within an imaging time.    Just setting them all to the same total exposure, not sure how useful this is.    Is there a way to set total imaging time.   Say I'm at a star party, I wanted to image this object and it's going to be up for 8 hours, is there a way to get an optimized use of that time?

Total object exposure:   I'm wondering if it makes sense to have a total imaging time (that you have).. and what's the best mix or exposures to fit into that and show the maximum object SNR you can get.

Gain.  Gain seems fixed, so while I have 2 different gains, one 0 and one 100, it just uses whatever you pick.     Might make sense to pick intelligently as I'm not really clear with the ASI6200 when to use gain 0 and use mostly gain 100.    

I haven't had the tool for long, so apologize if I'm not using it correctly.    Entirely willing to learn.   It's why I entered this in newbie area.

Thanks,
Terri]]> https://skyhound.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=2930 Mon, 16 Oct 2023 07:30:05 -0400 beecielo]]> https://skyhound.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=2930
If not, I guess a workaround could be to create a home_horizon.txt, darksite_horizon.txt, vacation_horizon.txt, etc. and then copy one to horizon.txt depending on where one is.]]>
If not, I guess a workaround could be to create a home_horizon.txt, darksite_horizon.txt, vacation_horizon.txt, etc. and then copy one to horizon.txt depending on where one is.]]> https://skyhound.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=2887 Wed, 12 Jul 2023 14:58:14 -0400 markusd112]]> https://skyhound.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=2887
is there any keyboard shurtcut to open the designation search tool in the target list?

I haven't found any info in the help.

Thanks,

Markus]]>
is there any keyboard shurtcut to open the designation search tool in the target list?

I haven't found any info in the help.

Thanks,

Markus]]> https://skyhound.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=2871 Tue, 06 Jun 2023 09:38:17 -0400 markusd112]]> https://skyhound.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=2871
do you have any idea, why the Img. Time is 3 minutes for nearly all listed objects in my Target Selection List? I have played around with the prime time year constraints and checked the image system settings, but I have no idea what's the reason

  Screenshot 2023-06-06 151007.jpeg (Size: 1.9 MB / Downloads: 10)

Thanks
Markus]]>
do you have any idea, why the Img. Time is 3 minutes for nearly all listed objects in my Target Selection List? I have played around with the prime time year constraints and checked the image system settings, but I have no idea what's the reason

  Screenshot 2023-06-06 151007.jpeg (Size: 1.9 MB / Downloads: 10)

Thanks
Markus]]> https://skyhound.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=2866 Wed, 31 May 2023 15:11:10 -0400 markusd112]]> https://skyhound.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=2866
is it possible to define some user defined "region" in the target list? e.g. I want to create the region around Sadr with all the Ha as a "wild field target". Is there any possibility?

Thanks,

Markus]]>
is it possible to define some user defined "region" in the target list? e.g. I want to create the region around Sadr with all the Ha as a "wild field target". Is there any possibility?

Thanks,

Markus]]>